Home > Growing tips & recipes > Hardening Off Plants: When and How to Do It Properly 7 min read 17.06.2026 Hardening Off Plants: When and How to Do It Properly Hardening off plants is the step most growers rush and regret. Here's how and when to do it, so your tender seedlings survive the move outdoors and thrive. You’ve babied your seedlings for weeks. Sown them, watered them, talked to them a bit (no judgement here), watched them turn from hopeful little specks into proper plants on the windowsill. So the last thing you want to do now is kill them in a single afternoon by chucking them straight out into the garden. That’s exactly what can happen without hardening off and it’s the step almost everyone is tempted to skip. Here’s how to do it properly, and when. What is hardening off? Hardening off is the process of gradually getting your plants used to outdoor conditions before they’re planted outdoors for good. Plants raised indoors, on a windowsill, or in a heated greenhouse have had a cushy life: stable warmth, no wind, no harsh light, no cold nights. Move them outside in one go and the shock can stop them in their tracks, or finish them off entirely. By introducing them to the outdoor elements slowly, you give them time to toughen up. Stronger stems, sturdier growth, and a far better chance of romping away once they’re in the ground. Which plants need hardening off? Mostly the soft ones. Tender plants and tender seedlings, think tomatoes, squash, courgettes, beans and most summer bedding have no frost tolerance at all, so they need the full treatment. Half hardy plants benefit too. Genuinely hardy plants and cold hardy plants are far more relaxed about the whole thing, but anything that’s been raised somewhere warm and sheltered will still appreciate a gentler transition than being flung out cold. When to harden off plants Timing is everything, and it hangs on one date: your last frost date. Tender seedlings should only go outside for good once the risk of frost has passed in your area, so check your local last frost before you start. (Our sowing calendar is a handy reference for getting your timings right across the season.) The hardening off process itself takes around two to three weeks, so work backwards: begin a couple of weeks before you plan to plant out, once nights are reliably milder. A late frost can undo all your good work, so there’s no prize for being first. How to harden off plants, step by step The golden rule is gradual. You’re aiming to slowly increase your plants’ exposure to sun, wind and cooler temperatures, not throw them in at the deep end. First few days. Pick a mild, cloudy day to start, direct sun is a lot for soft young plants. Place your plants outside in a sheltered, shady spot, ideally against a south facing wall or somewhere protected from wind, for just a couple of hours. Then bring them back in. Building up. Over the following days, gradually increase the time they spend outside and start moving them into a little more direct sunlight. Keep an eye on windy days especially, wind can do more damage to tender growth than people expect. Towards the end. By the second week you can leave them out for most of the day. As long as nights are frost-free, you can start leaving them out overnight too, building up to a full 24 hours before you plant them outdoors. Throughout, watch the weather. If a cold snap or late frost is forecast, bring everything back under cover or pop a layer of protection over them. No shame in retreating. The easy way: use a cold frame If all that shuffling of trays in and out sounds like a faff, a cold frame is your best friend. It’s essentially a halfway house, a sheltered box with a lid you prop open during the day and close at night, gradually exposing plants to outdoor conditions without the daily lugging about. Horticultural fleece does a similar job in a pinch: a breathable layer or two that takes the edge off cold nights while plants adjust. Both live in our crop protection range, and both save a lot of hardening-off headaches. If you’re still potting on at this stage, our containers and propagation kit has you covered too. Common hardening off mistakes Rushing it. Two to three weeks feels long when you’re itching to plant out, but cutting it short is the number one reason seedlings sulk. Too much sun, too soon. Direct sun on tender leaves can scorch them. Ease into it. Forgetting the forecast. One unexpected late frost can wipe out weeks of progress. Keep fleece handy. Ignoring the wind. Soft, leggy growth snaps easily. Start somewhere sheltered. Get the seedling stage right and the rest gets easier, if you’re still battling losses indoors, our guides on preventing damping off and troubleshooting seeds and seedlings are worth a read. Hardening off isn’t complicated, it just takes a little patience. Give your plants the time to adjust and they’ll reward you with stronger growth, fewer losses, and a much happier garden come summer. Slow and steady really does win this one. Meet the author Nelly Nelly works in the She Grows Veg marketing department and is an incredible cook! She's learning how to grow veg fast in her very own container garden. Her favourites so far are the Dwarf Sunflower called 'Sunspot' and our Dwarf Pea called 'Tom Thumb'. Previous Leatherjackets in the garden: what they are and how to get rid of them naturally Next How to Make a Cut Flower Garden at Home